Here's one for the old surf rats. Mort McIntosh took this image recently of Roland Certeza riding Right Side Merizo.
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5 comments:
I wish I lived near the Ocean.
.....Dave was 8 years old at the time.He and Kim Aiken decided to go out the Merizo Channel and catch a few waves,in Kims 10' Sears tin boat,
powered by 3 hp. Jonston outboard.
The swell was running a solid 8 feet that day...
this was gonna be fun. . . . .
It was a montgomery ward aluminum boat with a 5 horse johnson. I was 9 years old. The swell that threw us over the falls onto the reef was a 10 foot monster, the rougue set of the day. As I was drowning, I stood up on a coral head and discovered it was only 3 feet deep.. just as another cavernous tube crashed down on me.
I lost my brand new zorries that day.
But one short chapter in the epic novel chronicling how Larson and his fellow rats repeatedly cheated death.
Open the picture up and look at the bottom of the screen.. barely any water above the razor sharp coral. Cheating death is a good description..
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